I've been in Pretoria for nearly three weeks. The Jacaranda Trees are in full bloom painting the streets purple. There hasn't been a cloud in the sky and I keep hoping for a gigantic thunder storm. Laying out on the grass of the hostel looking up feels like I'm floating in a sea of blue! The palm trees and purple flowers surround my thoughts and seem to fill the air with a new freshness that only South Africa seems to provide. In my time here I've made a new friend Gregg. Gregg is an American traveling throughout different countries in Africa, doing research on environmental affairs. He and I have bonded in the strangest ways and I believe he's now officially been inducted into Peace Corps by default,
unofficially! In our weeks here together we have built our resume on hostel cooking and cleaning, dishwashing and speed reading. A group of 11 year old students from Kwa Zulu Nat'l visited Pretoria for a week creating a noise I feel certain only 11 year olds are capable of. Without shedding blood, they managed to break the filter in the pool, entice ants to crawl over everything in their trail of crumbs and lost a room key because they tied it around the cats neck in hoping that would ensure it's safety! For four nights in a row, myself Greg and the hostel staff served and dished up food for 80 eleven year olds. I was asked repeatedly how many famous people I know and am friends with and how big my car was! After awhile it became more interesting to just make something up. Of course, I now have met and spent a significant amount of time with the infamous Jennifer Aniston! (I will hear no laughing from you out there, Melissa!)
Yesterday, Greg had to meet with some environmental hotshots at the Botanical Gardens. I decided a change of scenery would be great and decidided to join him in his trek. The gardens are a fair distance but seriously walkable! And after all the cheese I've consumed, walking is a good thing! We asked Monique, my new friend who runs the hostel, if it is a safe walk. She looked at us sideways and said, "let me put it this way. One wouldn't ordinarily walk there, but you CAN do it!" and then she sauntered off. In hindsight, I'm thinking she must have been cursing the American mindset in ever thinking this was a good idea!
Greg and I set off and stopped at McDonalds for a fabulous mcflurry! While crossing the highway, yes the highway, by foot, I looked to my right and there standing alongside the highway were two enormous elephants eating the reeds and grass! In the middle of Pretoria!? Yes, seems to be the circus has come to town and clearly they were allowing the elephants to stretch their legs a bit. After a moment of watching awestruck, and confused, we moved on. Time and time again, I asked Greg if he was sure this was the right road. He assured me over and over that it was. So, after crossing a highway, dodging busses and trucks, walking alongside the freeway on broken glass, waste covering the ground and pokey trees catching my hair, we finally made it to the gardens, which were fabulous. We saw muir cats and walked along some great trails. Had a beautiful view of a new side of Pretoria I'd not seen yet. Walking back, we again took on the highway and crossed through some wetlands to avoid some of the freeway walking! The elephants were there waiting for us again as well as lion cubs, tigers, horses and ligers (lion crossed with tiger). It was odd. At the end of the day the cold beer and cheesy calzone were the perfect remedy for sore feet covered in mud!
Greg is leaving for Madagascar on Sunday and I will be leaving Monday for my new site. I'll be moving to Sabi, down near the gate of Kruger Park in the middle of canyons, high mountains and rivers. Sounds beautiful. I hear I may have a shower, running water, grocery store delux and be surrounded by other volunteers nearby. Though it sounds "easy" it will be a huge adjustment all over again and I am quietly thankful to have beautiful scenery which I can escape into when I'm feeling overwhelmed!
The beauty of Peace Corps is that you never know what is coming. The nature of our villages and site placement is filled with ambiguity and is unnatural in that we are thrown into a mix which we are not programmed for. The challenges and life changes that one goes through is forever life changing and creates resilience and growth in areas which I've never known possible.
I have never felt so unsafe, insecure and frustrated in my whole life. I've been made to create a home out of nothing, did it above and beyond and have been told I will not return. I have been betrayed by my co workers in ways that they must speak out in so that they can continue living there long after I've left. My instincts have left me empty and created fear in unreasonable places that I knew not to exist. I trust no one and fear everything. This in time will fade and I know that the nature of South Africa will again become welcoming and pleasant. Within my fear, it is a great feeling to know that I can continue to feel blessed and honored at serving in Peace Corps. It's relieving to realize that my instincts are not to go home, but rather to face this head on and begin looking forward.
This journey of mine has been extraordinary and one that has caused mor joy as well as tears than I ever anticipated. Saying goodbye and finding closure in the village that became my home and my refuge will be devestating but I am pleased that all I invested in will be there when I take my parents to go back for a visit. I'm thankful for the exposure and know that how I lived, survived and understand now is something that will be carried with me into Sabie, South Africa and all the places I have yet to see. At the end of this adventure, I am sure that my world will be opened in ways I never thought possible and my soul will, in the end, always look back to Makgato where I lived, laughed and survived! That will always be my home here in South Africa!